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 Estimated reading time: 3 min. |
  Gonzalo M. Aziz |
Few activities compare to pedalling across the mountain. For such reason, if you are a fanatic, we recommend an incredible tour: joining El Bolsón with Esquel along a rubble road that crosses the Los Alerces National Park.
This is a somewhat difficult outing, as it goes across 200 kilometers of ascents and descents, suitable for 4 days of cycletourism. Anyway, if you are a beginner in the subject, we suggest that you should take some more days and make more stops.
Before starting, do not forget to put everything in order, as not every bicycle (or every cycletourist) can endure with this mountain tour. Better safe than sorry.
First of all, it is good to have a light vehicle, preferably made of aluminum, which does not get rusty. Good clothes, first aid kit and everything you believe is necessary to face this exciting tour. |
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Food deserves an independent chapter. You have several groceries along the way. For such reason, there is no need to carry many things for the outing.
Everything you take must be distributed so as to make balance between the two rear waterproof saddlebags. In addition, a set of tools, a pump and a spare tyre. That is all.
No sooner have you arrived in El Bolsón (Province of Río Negro), than you should take advantage of the opportunity to see the village and its outskirts. Among its many attractions, the brewery located on Route 258, just 2 kilometers from the town (on the right), is incredible. Mind you: do not get too much excited with drinking. Remember this is a sports tour.
First Day
During the first day, you will cross the border towards the Province of Chubut up to Cholila, a small beautiful town located 70 kilometers from El Bolsón.
Everything starts at the main square of the town. From there, you will have to cycle for two blocks along the main avenue towards the West until you reach the Automóvil Club Argentino and then turn left into paved Route 40. You will have started. |
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After cycling up and down soft slopes, you will be crossing the beauty of El Hoyo, a very small village settled on a valley full of farms. There is where the most delicious jams in the country are made: the El Bolsón fine fruit production center.
38 kilometers from El Bolsón, on the right, you will find the entrance to Epuyén, a very beautiful place seen from the road. With lake included, this is a very good choice to make a stop at night for those who are not in good physical shape. It has all the appropriate services for any cyclotourist (accommodation / camping site and grocery).
As you go on cycling, you will find a fork in the road 2 kilometers from Epuyén. You should take the detour in the left and enter rubble Provincial Route 71, which crosses the Province of Chubut. You will be 30 kilometers from Cholila.
You will quickly abandon the mountain range zone to enter the steppe. Its yellow shades are a real pleasure for exercising.
Before getting to Cholila, you will cross a kind of "phantom area", full of abandoned buildings that give evidence of people living there. There are even the ruins of a post office building from 1950. |
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As an interesting piece of information, we can tell you that there are three cabins which once sheltered the American bandit Butch Cassidy. It is very easy to mistake them for the other ancient buildings. Therefore, it is convenient that you pay attention so as not to miss the chance to see them. Enjoy everything, but do maintain a steady pace so as to get to destination before the sun sets.
You will get to Cholila without any problem in the afternoon. The first thing you will see is the Automóvil Club Argentino. Turn left and cycle 2 kilometers to get to the center of the very small settlement where the clouds have a particular way to float in the air. They seem to be painted in pastel shades. The aromas of the countryside will give you a warm welcome.
Your first stop is right there. You may choose to stay at a local inn or else at the camping site. As regards food, you will find a grocery.
Second Day
You should wake up early so that you can visit the surroundings of Cholila after breakfast and before heading for the Los Alerces National Park. There are still 50 kilometers to go before you get to Río Arrayanes. |
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The first stretch of the day joins Cholila and Lake Rivadavia. The road crosses beautiful sceneries of abandoned dairy farms. Along the border of the Carrileufú River, you will come close to the Rivadavia, a spectacular mirror of turquoise waters surrounded by walls of rock and vegetation.
One important thing: Lake Rivadavia is a good spot in case you need to make a stop (there is a camping site, a grocery, etc.).
Soon afterwards, the road crosses the access to the Los Alerces National Park. You will have to pay a small fee to the National Parks Administration and continue cycling. The tour will gradually become more difficult (constant ascents and descents). But do not be disappointed: there is a series of creeks and spots very suitable for a rest.
In the middle of the afternoon, you will be arriving in Lake Verde. You cannot miss it because this is a most beautiful place. There are several descents on the shore where you can have a rest. In case you need food, there is also a small grocery. |
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Only one kilometer away is the Arrayanes River, which has a wild camping site area, free of charge, where you will spend the night. With all frankness, we can say this is one of the most spectacular rivers in the world (in the high season, due to the large amount of tourists, you cannot camp for more than three days).
The Arrayanes River joins Lake Verde with Lake Futalaufquen: next stop.
Third Day
You have to cycle hard for 40 kilometers heading for Villa Futalaufquen. No sooner will you leave that you will find yourself bordering the "Great Lake" (futa=great, laufquen=lake). This is considered one of the most Apollonian lakes in all Patagonia.
The rubble road mingles hard ascents and pleasant descents. After about 32 kilometers, at around midday, you will come into a paved road right before the entrance to the village -a real paradise where you can spend the night and rest before facing the last day of cycling. |
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Right there you will unload your bicycle, have lunch and go for a ride across the village and the lake. On the shores, lies Puerto Limonao, a paradise. There is a fair wooden pier where making a stop to enjoy the panoramic view is worthwhile.
Spending the afternoon in Futalaufquen is a pleasure. There are several spots where to have tea and relax. Enjoy a good rest as the last stretch will be waiting for you the following day.
There are two alternatives to spend the night. Either the inn located inside the village or the camping sites located before the entrance, on Route 71 on the shores of the lake.
Fourth Day
You will have to wake up really early, as a hard but amusing day will be waiting for you. Leaving the village, you will have to resume Route 71 (paved so far). An important piece of information: from that point onwards, there are 9 kilometers without any water up to the Rañinto creek.
Soon afterwards, you will cross the arch that will see you off form the Los Alerces National Park and the mountain area. The road turns to the East again to go back to the steppe.
After 23 kilometers, you will find a fork in the road. Taking the path on the right, cycle on till you get to Trevelin. But turn left this time, onto the road leading to Esquel. |
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Just there, you will see something amazing: a 5-kilometer downward (rubble) slope where you will reach over 50 km./h. Make sure your helmet is properly fixed, as this is a dangerous stretch.
Once extreme adrenaline has passed and once again on the pavement, where will be a short way to get to Esquel. The road across soft slopes and large creeks is quite simple. A very good ending for a tour of this kind.
Half an hour later, you will make a kind of triumphant entrance along the Alvear Avenue into such a cozy city as Esquel, thus ending an incredible experience worth repeating in the future. |
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