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 Estimated reading time: 2 min. |
 Marcelo Sola  Jorge González |
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The previous night storm had been cast into oblivion. It was a real gift from nature that after the rough winds and lighting, we were immersed in a calm different morning, full of sunshine and intense colors.
Taking advantage of the occasion, we immediately made arrangements with the people from Huinca Travel. Very willingly, as usual, they suggested making an excursion across one of the most beautiful and less advertised regions of the surroundings of Puerto Madryn: Punta Ninfas.
We left the city center along Provincial Route 1, heading southwards. The pavement turned into rubble and thus the Patagonian steppe became multiplied around us.
The truck that transported us at great speed let us have a good sight of the spots we were going through. Diego –the driver– and Germán –our adventure guide– took us back to the past with their stories, and we could imagine the ancient dwellings of the native Tehuelches. We understood their relationship with the flora and the fauna of the place, still pristine despite the passing of time. |
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We took Provincial Route 5. As we were the first visitors of the day, we had the chance of spotting some guanacos, choiques with their offspring –called charitos– Patagonian hares and the hundreds of sheep that were gathered along the way by the truck passing.
Desolate Patagonia
Nature presented itself in its purest state and we were there to interpret it. We walked along cliffs and paths, watching flowers, butterflies, the spectacular landscape, as we felt the Patagonian wind –always present– and saw the cloudless sky.
The perspective of a dark spot in the middle of the Patagonian steppe was changing its size, acquiring the shape of a lighthouse, the Punta Ninfas lighthouse. |
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We went down the cliff to appreciate a colony of sea elephant in a unique context, opposite the shores of the Valdés Peninsula. The spot, along with Punta León, is the only continental post of these mammals outside the peninsula. The guide made some remarks about the habits and customs of the specimens.
We were walking on millions of years, as the site exposes hundreds of sea fossils that remained after the warm sea of those days withdrew from the shore. Sea birds not usually seen inside the gulfs may be observed in Punta Ninfas. During the whale season, the entrance and exit of mothers with their newly born offspring may be appreciated. In this environment, we enjoyed a delicious lunch to recover our energy. Then, we went back to the truck. |
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When the excursion was over we were totally fascinated. The purity of the air, the desolation of the scenery, the sound of the elephant seals, the ancient fossils, the kindness of our guides, everything was ideal to travel up to this destination, which was unknown until the previous day, and where we were already thinking about returning. |
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Wear sport clothes; carry a backpack, a hat, sun protection and eagerness to enjoy the day. |
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At the foot of the cliff, on the immense shore, we find the small elephant seal colony.
As we strolled along the beach, the guide suggested that we should not stand facing them, as it generates an intimidating posture.
I learnt that the reproduction structure of the elephant seal is the harem. The large males can reach a weight of 3.5 tons and they have big trunks.
The leading male is called alpha and it mates with all the females.
In the surroundings, I watched large males but with little experience in fighting due to their short age. They are the famous peripheral males. As they do not have their own female, they steal them or try to mate their neighbors. These cunning creatures are always lying in wait for the right moment in which the leader is not paying attention. It was a true fascinating experience to be so close to the elephant seals.
Marcelo Sola
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