Outings and excursions · Esquel

Los Alerces National Park Nooks

Text: Marcos Rodríguez · Photos: José Arrieta

The park allows us to walk through logs lying on the ground, look skywards, discover the canopies of huge trees and breathe the air created by vegetation and the local lakes.

During our stay in Esquel, we decided to visit the astounding lakes sheltered by Los Alerces National Park. Once we left the city, we crossed the so-called “ecotone” area where the steppe turns into the Andean forest.

Lake Futalaufquen among cypress trees and mountains
Lake Futalaufquen among cypress trees and mountains
Rocky shore and forest on a lake in Los Alerces National Park
Rocky shore and forest on a lake in Los Alerces National Park
The Arrayanes River winding through the forest, seen from above
The Arrayanes River winding through the forest, seen from above
Lake Verde surrounded by forests and mountains
Lake Verde surrounded by forests and mountains
Green waters at the foot of the forest, under a tree branch
Green waters at the foot of the forest, under a tree branch
Pebble beach on the shore of Lake Futalaufquen
Pebble beach on the shore of Lake Futalaufquen
The Futalaufquen with the mountains in the background
The Futalaufquen with the mountains in the background

Los Alerces National Park at a glance

WhereNorthwest of Chubut, west of Esquel
Getting thereFrom Esquel along paved National Route 259 and then gravel Provincial Route 71
Established1937, to preserve the ancient alerce forest
Area259,570 hectares
HeritageUNESCO World Heritage Site since 2017
What to seeLakes Futalaufquen, Verde, Menéndez and Krüger, the Arrayanes River and the ancient alerce forest

On the way to the park

We drove along paved National Route 259 and then turned into gravel Provincial Route 71, where great bustards (ashy-headed geese) and buff-necked ibis protected our journey. We made our first stop at the 70th km marker and visited a house which, according to history and myth, was dwelled by the legendary outlaw Butch Cassidy during his adventures in Argentina. At that point, the landscape was exclusively made of forests whereas mountains came into sight one after the other until we finally reached our destination.

Los Alerces National Park was created in 1937 as a way to preserve the ancient forest, recognized for its beauty and slow growth. The beauty and magic coming from the palette of colors of the lakes and vegetation unfolded before our eyes on every vantage point and dream corner, which were undoubtedly the main attractions in the area.

Lake Futalaufquen

Perhaps, the most breathtaking lake is Futalaufquen. On the left shore of this water body lies the village bearing the same name, the main services area. There, the National Park’s Head Office and Interpretive Center has a special place within a building made of stone and wood. We were provided with excellent information about different tours along interpretive trails in the National Park: Mount Alto Dedal, Los Pumas, Cinco Saltos, Tío Mindo Cascade or cave paintings are some of the tours where native flora may be admired in all its glory and splendor.

This place offers a wide variety of tours. Just 4 kilometers away from the village, southwards of the eastern arm (the lake has three arms) is Puerto Limonao, the main local port in the area. We could see motorboats in front and the incredible lodge “Hostería Futalaufquen” behind us.

Boat tours to the alerce forest and Lake Krüger

In the summer, two boat tours depart from such port: one to the Patagonian cypress forest and the other one to Lake Krüger. The former consists in sailing across Lake Futalaufquen, the Arrayanes River, Lakes Verde and Menéndez and entering the ancient Patagonian cypress forest. It also includes a hiking tour to Lake Cisne with stunning views towards Mount Torrecillas and the glacier on its top.

Throughout the year, the water level of the Arrayanes River is sometimes low, which makes navigation impossible. Thus, this boat tour departs only from Puerto Chucao on Lake Menéndez. Visitors should get there by land.

It is advisable to take notice of the schedule and arrive at the port one hour before departure. It is recommended to carry a lunch box in the knowledge that visitors should bring back the rubbish they produce.

The alerce forest

The Patagonian cypress forest boasts trees which are almost 3,000 years old. Their thick trunks may reach three meters in diameter and from 60 to 70 meters of height. This forest lies on the border of the so-called Valdivian rainforest. In the early twentieth century, its precious timber was used to manufacture wooden tiles for roofs and carpentry. Chilean people have always considered it as the “gold of the forest”.

A long stay by the lake

On the right shore of Lake Futalaufquen, amid cascades, springs and sandy beaches, we can find inns, bungalows, cabins, campsites and grocery stores. These amenities complete the array of attractions in this spot and enable visitors to spend a longer stay in this unforgettable Patagonian nook as well.

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