Licán Ray: the Ziwilwe peninsula, its two beaches and the Stone Arch by kayak

Licán Ray is a lakeside resort in the commune of Villarrica, in Chile’s Araucanía Region, on the northern shore of Lake Calafquén. Its name comes from the Mapudungun likan rayen, “flint” and “flower”. What sets it apart is its shape: a wooded peninsula juts into the lake and splits the town into two beaches, Playa Grande and Playa Chica. This outing brings all three together in one day: the two beaches, the trails of the Ziwilwe peninsula and a kayak trip to the Stone Arch and the islets.

Licán Ray at a glance

Two beaches and a peninsula

Playa Grande runs from the northern base of the peninsula to the Malpún stream, with dark volcanic sand, and is the starting point for many of the lake’s activities. Playa Chica stretches from the southern base of the peninsula to the fishermen’s cove; this is where the landing is, lined with colourful boats, and where boat trips set off. In between, the peninsula acts as a natural lookout over the islands and islets of the Calafquén, and its calm waters are good for swimming, water sports and recreational fishing.

The Ziwilwe peninsula

The peninsula is a 15.5-hectare park looked after by the local Mapuche community. At the entrance you are greeted by two chemamull, wooden figures representing people, and a Mapuche cultural centre with food and crafts. From there, walking trails circle the peninsula with views of the lake and several lookouts, among arrayanes, lingues and other native species. To get there, from the Playa Chica area go to the end of General Urrutia avenue, turn right onto Felipe Manquel street and walk a block and a half.

By kayak to the Stone Arch

Near Playa Grande, water and wind have carved an arch into the rock, covered in vegetation and home to wild birds. There is no path over land: the Stone Arch can only be reached across the lake. Kayaks, catamarans and pedal boats are rented on the beach; from Playa Grande, follow the shore to the right until you reach it. The same trip lets you explore the nearby islets at your own pace.

Those islets have a story of their own. According to the legend behind the town’s name, Licán Ray was the daughter of a chief on the lake’s northern shore who fell in love with a Spanish captain. To escape the marriage her father had arranged, they fled by canoe at night to one of the islands; every time the cold forced them to light a fire, the smoke gave them away and they had to move to another island, until they vanished down the river. It is said that on full-moon nights a canoe with two lovers can still be seen.

Tip: Bring cash for the Ziwilwe peninsula entrance fee.