Route 40 starts at Cabo Vírgenes, in Santa Cruz, and crosses the country to La Quiaca. Its Santa Cruz section, 1,325 km long, is the loneliest: it runs between the dry, windy Patagonian plateau and the Andes, where the lakes, forests and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field begin.
This route runs north to south, from Lago Buenos Aires to the glaciers, with detours to some of the most striking places in the province.
The route
From Los Antiguos and Perito Moreno, Route 40 heads south through Bajo Caracoles and Gobernador Gregores, skirts lakes Cardiel and Viedma and reaches Lago Argentino, near El Calafate. Since 2003 hundreds of kilometres have been paved in the province, but in 2022 there were still 72 km of gravel.
Stops
Los Antiguos and Lago Buenos Aires
Los Antiguos lies on Lago Buenos Aires, the second-largest lake in South America, called General Carrera on the Chilean side. It has farms, a year-round craft fair and viewpoints. In summer you can drive to Lago Posadas along the Monte Zeballos road (Provincial Route 41), one of the most varied landscapes in Patagonia.
Perito Moreno
About 25 km from the lake, Perito Moreno is the area’s service town, surrounded by ranches and soft-fruit farms. It has the Laguna de los Cisnes and is the base for visiting the Cueva de las Manos.
Cueva de las Manos
In the Río Pinturas canyon, between Perito Moreno and Bajo Caracoles, lies one of the oldest rock-art sites in South America: the oldest paintings have been dated to 7350 BC. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. From Bajo Caracoles it is reached by a 42 km dirt road (Provincial Route 97).
Paintings at the Cueva de las Manos, in the Río Pinturas canyon. Foto: Pablo A. Gimenez from Buenos Aires, Argentina · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Bajo Caracoles, Lago Posadas and Perito Moreno National Park
Bajo Caracoles is a roadside hamlet with lodging, a campsite, a restaurant and fuel; its name comes from the fossil ammonites (“snails”) found in the area. From there, 75 km of gravel lead to Lago Posadas, with lakes Posadas and Pueyrredón and Mount San Lorenzo (3,700 m) nearby, popular for fishing. Further south, towards the Andes, is Perito Moreno National Park, where the steppe meets the Patagonian forest.
Arriving at Bajo Caracoles on Route 40. Foto: Ulises Icardi · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Where lakes Posadas and Pueyrredón meet, from the air. Foto: Ppviorgullo · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Gobernador Gregores and Tres Lagos
Gobernador Gregores, 226 km from Bajo Caracoles, is the next stop with services. Further south, Tres Lagos is named for its closeness to lakes Viedma, Tar and San Martín.
Lake Viedma from La Leona. Foto: Miguel · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
El Chaltén and El Calafate: the glaciers
Past the La Leona River, which drains Lake Viedma, the road reaches the Los Glaciares National Park area. To the north, Provincial Route 23 leads to El Chaltén, at the foot of Fitz Roy. To the south, El Calafate is the gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier and boat trips on Lago Argentino.
El Chaltén and Fitz Roy. Foto: Gedankenstuecke · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
When to go
The Monte Zeballos road can only be driven in summer. The Bajo Caracoles campsite opens in season. Before setting off, check the state of the road and the gravel sections.
Getting there
El Calafate has scheduled flights (about three hours from Buenos Aires). Perito Moreno and Los Antiguos are on Route 40 and Provincial Route 43, in north-western Santa Cruz. There are no scheduled buses to Lago Posadas: you get there by car or on a tour.
