The Patagonian coast is unlike any other beach in Argentina. There are cliffs, rocky shelves and beaches that grow huge at low tide, with tides of several metres. It is windy, yes, but there are also sheltered bays and a sea where, depending on the season, whales, dolphins, sea lions and penguins appear.
This route runs north to south, from the San Matías Gulf in Río Negro to the San Jorge Gulf, between Chubut and Santa Cruz. You can do it all or pick one stretch.
The route
In Río Negro, Provincial Route 1, known as the Camino de la Costa (Coastal Road), runs along the sea from El Cóndor southwards. Further south, National Route 3 links the coastal towns of Chubut and northern Santa Cruz, with turn-offs to each beach.
Stops
El Cóndor (Río Negro)
31 km from Viedma, at the mouth of the Río Negro, it is the first of more than 150 km of beaches. It has fine sand, a sea coloured brown by the river’s sediment and the oldest lighthouse in Patagonia, in service since 1887. A large colony of burrowing parrots lives in the cliffs. Further south come beaches such as La Lobería and Bahía Rosas, popular for fishing.
The El Cóndor lighthouse, on the cliff. Foto: AugustoCC · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Las Grutas and San Antonio Este
Las Grutas is the largest and best-known beach in Patagonia. It lies on the San Matías Gulf, which gives it mild, clear water, much sought after for diving, and cliffs that shelter it from the wind. At low tide, rock pools appear, and the beach has nine access points with services. Dolphins can be seen in August and September. Nearby, in San Antonio Este, are Villarino beach and Las Conchillas, white with countless seashells.
Playas Doradas (Río Negro)
28 km from Sierra Grande, Playas Doradas has 3 km of gently sloping beach with fine sand whose golden sheen gives it its name. Next to it is Islote Lobos National Park, created in 2022. Further south are smaller beaches such as Playa Escondida and Playa Bonita, popular with anglers.
Puerto Madryn and Península Valdés (Chubut)
Puerto Madryn is the gateway to Península Valdés, a World Heritage Site since 1999, and is known as Argentina’s National Diving Capital. Southern right whales arrive between May and December; at El Doradillo beach they can be seen just metres from the shore. In summer, the beaches fill with people and water sports.
On the peninsula, Puerto Pirámides is the only village and the starting point for whale watching. Its bay is ideal for kayaking, stand-up paddling and snorkelling, and there are quieter beaches such as Piedra Guacha and Las Cuevas.
Southern right whale off Puerto Pirámides. Foto: LOA56 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Playa Unión and Punta Tombo
Playa Unión is the beach resort of Rawson, 6 km from the town centre. Some 100 km south of the lower Chubut valley lies Punta Tombo, one of the largest mainland colonies of Magellanic penguins.
The Punta Tombo penguin colony, Chubut. Foto: Gabriel Miranda · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Camarones and Bahía Bustamante
Camarones is the gateway to the Patagonia Austral Coastal Marine Park. It offers boat trips to Cabo Dos Bahías, fishing, diving and quiet beaches (with no lifeguards). Further south, at Bahía Bustamante, there are white-sand beaches between reddish rocks and boat trips to the Vernacci archipelago, where the steamer duck nests.
Rada Tilly and the San Jorge Gulf coast
Right next to Comodoro Rivadavia, Rada Tilly bills itself as the southernmost beach resort on the continent. Its beach, almost 4 km long between Punta Piedras and Punta del Marqués, uncovers up to 600 m of firm sand at low tide. Towards Caleta Olivia there are almost undeveloped beaches such as Playa Bonita, La Herradura and Alsina.
Rada Tilly beach at sunset. Foto: Prácticas Intraescolares · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Further south
To keep going south: in Puerto Deseado, the Isla Pingüino Reserve, with rockhopper and Magellanic penguins from October to April; and in Puerto San Julián, the bay, the sea lion colony and the replica of the Nao Victoria.
When to go
- Summer (December to March): beach season, when beaches are busiest.
- May to December: southern right whales in Puerto Madryn and Península Valdés.
- August and September: dolphins in Las Grutas.
- October to April: penguins on the Santa Cruz coast.
Getting there
Via National Route 3, which runs along the whole coast. In Río Negro, Provincial Route 1 follows the sea from El Cóndor. Puerto Madryn has an airport (El Tehuelche) and a long-distance bus terminal.
