Lago del Desierto and the Huemul Glacier

From El Chaltén, provincial route 23 heads north and sticks close to the Río de las Vueltas, following each bend through lenga and ñire forest that grows denser the farther you go. It is about 37 km to the southern tip of Lago del Desierto, and it pays to look back often: Mount Fitz Roy stays in view for much of the drive.

The lake is long and narrow, wedged between the Del Bosque and Vespignani ranges, at around 506 metres above sea level and covering close to 9 km². Hanging glaciers spill down the western side, and at the southern end the Río de las Vueltas begins its run to Lake Viedma. The valley also carries history: it was at the heart of the border dispute with Chile that an international arbitration tribunal settled in Argentina's favour in 1994.

Near the southern tip, the trail to the Huemul Glacier sets off into the lenga forest and climbs a well-marked path, reaching a moraine ridge in a little over half an hour. From there it is about fifteen minutes along the ridge to Laguna Huemul, a milky lagoon with the small glacier hanging just above it. The trail crosses private land, and an entrance fee is charged.

The rest of the day is spent on the water. Boat trips on the lake last between 40 minutes and an hour, with the Vespignani Glacier in sight and, looking back, Fitz Roy rising again at the end of the valley. Some outings include a landing and a short walk to a viewpoint over the lake.

From El Calafate, the trip works best with a night in El Chaltén. The recommended season runs from October to April; the rest of the year, snow and cold make access very difficult.

• Tour type: Sightseeing, trekking and boat trip
• Difficulty level: Easy to moderate (the climb to the moraine has steep sections)
• Tip: Bring warm and waterproof layers even if the day starts out fine: on the lake, wind and temperature change quickly.